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Delhi
Delhi is not one city, it is seven of them stacked on the same ground, and the reason first visits go wrong is trying to see it as one place. Old Delhi and Lutyens' Delhi are ten minutes apart on the Metro and belong to different centuries. Give each a separate morning rather than stitching them together — the whiplash is what exhausts people. Start in Shahjahanabad early, before the Chandni Chowk lanes fill and the rickshaws stop being able to move at all. Jama Masjid's southern minaret is worth the climb for the one view that makes the layout of the old city legible from above. The Metro is genuinely excellent and will save you hours; use it and ignore anyone who tells you Delhi traffic is unavoidable. On Thursday evenings there is qawwali at Nizamuddin Dargah, which is the single most affecting hour in the city and costs nothing. Be honest with yourself about when you come. From late October into January the air is often severely polluted, and no amount of planning fixes a week you spend indoors with a headache. February and March are the reward months.
Uttar Pradesh
Almost everyone rushes Agra as a day trip from Delhi, and almost everyone regrets it — the Taj deserves a dawn and the city has a second monument nearly as good. Go to the Taj at sunrise, and know that it closes on Fridays. The marble changes colour through the first hour in a way no photograph has ever conveyed; by nine the light has flattened and the crowd has arrived. If you only have one slot, take that one. Agra Fort is the thing people skip and should not. Shah Jahan spent his last years imprisoned in it, looking downriver at the tomb he built for his wife, and you can stand where he stood. It is a working piece of Mughal military architecture rather than a monument to grief, and it is quieter. For the view most people never see, cross the river to Mehtab Bagh in the late afternoon and look at the Taj from the back, across the Yamuna, with nobody in front of you. The city outside the monuments is hard work — persistent touts, heavy traffic, little to hold you. Sleep here for the sunrise, then move on.
Rajasthan
Jaipur repays getting up early more than almost anywhere in Rajasthan, because by ten the coaches have arrived and Amber Fort stops being a fort and becomes a queue. Be at Amber for opening. Walk up rather than taking the elephants — the welfare of those animals is a long-running problem and a jeep does the same job. Inside, the Sheesh Mahal is the room everyone photographs, but the Ganesh Pol above the second courtyard is the better piece of work. Hawa Mahal disappoints people, and it is worth knowing why before you stand in front of it: it is a screen, one room deep, built so the women of the household could watch the street unseen. There is almost nothing behind the facade. The good view is from the rooftop cafés opposite, looking back at it. Jantar Mantar is the one to book a guide for. Without someone to explain them the instruments are handsome shapes; with someone, they are a working observatory and the visit turns into the best hour of your day. For fabric go to Johari Bazaar, for everyday chaos and better prices go to Chandpole. October to March. April onwards the stone gets too hot to touch by mid-morning.
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