The tomb of the Sufi saint who brought the Chishti order to India in the twelfth century, and the most visited Muslim shrine in the subcontinent — up to twenty thousand people on an ordinary day, and hundreds of thousands during the urs that marks his death anniversary. The complex is more than the tomb: several graves, a mosque, and the enormous cooking cauldrons that are still used. Heads covered, shoes off, and expect to be offered a chadar and a guide at the gate — agree a price or decline plainly. Early morning and late evening are calmer than the middle of the day.
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