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Beyond the forts — the desert state's quiet side
6 places
Rajasthan
Gagron is Rajasthan's great jala-durg — a water fort — standing where the Ahu meets the Kali Sindh, with rivers guarding three of its sides in place of a moat.
Pushkar wraps around its lake — a natural one, and sacred — in the rugged Aravalli hills near Ajmer.
Jaisalmer is built from the same yellow sandstone it stands on, which is why at six in the evening the whole fort looks lit from inside — and why at midday it…
The Ranakpur Jain Temple, set in a quiet Aravalli valley, is a 15th-century marble masterpiece dedicated to Adinath, the first Tirthankara.
Bikaner gets a fraction of Jaisalmer's and Jodhpur's visitors and is a better city for it. Nothing here is queued.
Bundi is what Rajasthan looked like before the tour buses found it, and it is an hour off the Jaipur to Udaipur road that most people never take.
