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Attraction
Ujjain (Mahakaleshwar), Madhya Pradesh
The Jyotirlinga of Shiva famed for the daily pre-dawn Bhasma Aarti.
Kushinagar, Uttar Pradesh
Houses a 6-metre reclining statue of the dying Buddha.
Experience
Maa Sharda Mandir (Maihar), Madhya Pradesh
A cable car that carries you from the terminal at the foot of the hill straight up to the shrine gates in a few minutes.
Mahalakshmi (Ambabai) Temple, Maharashtra
The dark stone inner sanctum, holding the centuries-old image of Ambabai, carved from a single block of gemstone.
Key Monastery, Himachal Pradesh
The sacred central assembly hall filled with old thangka tapestries, rare musical instruments, and traditional low seating benches.
Badrinath, Uttarakhand
The last village before the Tibet border, three kilometres on from the temple and one of the highest inhabited places in India. There is a cave attributed to Vyasa and a tea shop that bills itself as the last in the country.
Haridwar, Uttarakhand
On Bilwa Parvat above the town, three kilometres up by ropeway or on foot. Pilgrims tie a thread here and come back to untie it if the wish is granted.
Lake Mansarovar
The sacred circumambulation of the high-altitude holy lake.
Viewpoint
Shamlaji, Gujarat
The river and reservoir immediately behind the temple, with stone bathing ghats along the bank. Full of bathers on festival days and very quiet the rest of the time.
Mehsana, Gujarat
An eleventh-century temple to Surya on the bank of the Pushpavati, built under Bhima I and Karna I of the Chaulukya dynasty. It has not been used for worship for a very long time and is a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India, which is why you can walk through all of it. Three parts: the shrine hall, the assembly hall in front of it, and the kunda — a stepped tank with small shrines set into every tier, running down to the water. The carving on the exteriors and pillars is the reason to come, and the tank is the reason to come early.
The traditional wood-fired kitchen where friendly lamas prepare hot butter tea and local barley meals for visitors.
Chamundeshwari Temple, Karnataka
The sacred bull, 16 feet high and 24 feet long, chiselled out of black granite in the 17th century and standing halfway up the hill.
Sarnath, Uttar Pradesh
Built in 1931, with wall paintings by the Japanese artist Kosetsu Nosu that took him years to finish. The Bodhi tree outside was grown from a cutting of the one at Anuradhapura, which came from Bodh Gaya. The relics are shown once a year.
Nalanda, Bihar
The vast UNESCO-listed red-brick remains of the ancient university.
Kalighat Kali Temple, West Bengal
The large pillared hall facing the main shrine, open on all sides and built for devotional singing and community gatherings.
Jogulamba Temple, Telangana
A group of nine 7th-century stone temples exhibiting northern Rekha-Nagara architectural spires and complex structural gate reliefs.
Rishikesh, Uttarakhand
Six kilometres up the Badrinath road, then about a kilometre on foot from the gate. Full during and after the monsoon, a trickle by April. Small entry fee.
Girnar Hills, Gujarat
A walled cluster of marble Jain temples around the 3,500-step mark, built between the twelfth and fifteenth centuries. Neminath's temple at the centre is the main one, and the courtyards are the first flat ground on the climb, so most people rest here.
Murudeshwar Beach, Karnataka
Boat dives to the coral-rich waters off Netrani (Pigeon) Island.
Kamakhya Temple, Assam
The edge of the hill just past the temple, looking down on the Brahmaputra as it bends around Guwahati. Two minutes from the queue, and almost nobody walks over to it.
Gokarna, Karnataka
The famous natural golden sand beach shaped exactly like the sacred spiritual symbol Om, popular for water sports and independent cafes.
Madurai (Meenakshi Amman Temple), Tamil Nadu
The highly sacred nightly closing procession where the silver idol of Lord Sundareswarar is carried to the chamber of Goddess Meenakshi.
Kamakshi Amman Temple, Tamil Nadu
The stepped temple tank in the northern courtyard, used for ritual bathing and for float festivals on the water.
Gangotri, Uttarakhand
A cave a kilometre and a half out of town where the Pandavas are said to have stopped on their way into the mountains. A short walk through deodar, usually empty.
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