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All things to do
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Food
Shillong, Meghalaya
The buzzing market and cafe districts at the heart of Shillong's food and music scene.
Attraction
Porbandar, Gujarat
A city beach with a paved promenade and a line of food carts, which is what most people actually come for — sunset, then bhajiya. Kirti Mandir, at Gandhi's birthplace, is a short walk inland.
Viewpoint
Madurai (Meenakshi Amman Temple), Tamil Nadu
The sacred golden lotus stepwell tank inside the complex, surrounded by historic columned corridors and painted murals.
Bhuj, Gujarat
Italian Gothic in red sandstone, finished in 1879 and badly shaken by the 2001 earthquake — parts are still unrepaired. The clock tower can be climbed for the view over Bhuj.
Mathura & Vrindavan, Uttar Pradesh
A vast white-marble temple in Vrindavan, floodlit in colour after dark, which is when everyone comes. Built by a modern sect rather than an old one, and it looks it.
Pondicherry (Puducherry), Puducherry
The seafront promenade, a popular spot for morning walks and sunrise by the Bay of Bengal.
Hidden Gem
Wagah Border, Punjab
A historic multi-century old fortified trading post built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, located 6 km from the border lines.
Alleppey (Backwaters), Kerala
The historic backwater stretch that hosts the annual Nehru Trophy snake boat races, popular for evening walks.
Puri (Jagannath Temple & Beach), Odisha
The clean, wide sandy shore front flanking the Bay of Bengal, famous for evening local seafood stalls and traditional sand art sculptures.
Pushkar, Rajasthan
Fifty-two ghats ring the water, each attached to a different community or ruler, and the lake is old enough to appear on coins from the fourth century BC. Hindu tradition calls it tirtha-guru, the teacher of pilgrimage places, and a bath here is held to wash away sin; more than five hundred temples stand around the shore. The crowds peak at Kartik Poornima in October or November, when the Pushkar fair runs. Shoes off on every ghat, and photographing people bathing is not welcome. A priest will press a puja on you the moment you sit down — fix the amount first or say no plainly.
Delhi, Delhi
A 73 m victory tower and UNESCO World Heritage Site in south Delhi.
Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep), Andaman & Nicobar Islands
A long west-facing crescent with nothing built behind it, which is why it photographs the way it does. Lifeguards work set hours and the flags are worth obeying. Sunset is the busy hour.
Radhanagar Beach (Havelock), Andaman & Nicobar Islands
The northern end of the arc, where people gather as the light goes. The beach faces west, so the sun drops into open water — rare on this side of India.
Kullu, Himachal Pradesh
The historic 17th-century spiritual anchor of the valley housing the sacred royal idol of Lord Rama.
Chidambaram (Nataraja Temple), Tamil Nadu
A columned hall built as a stone chariot, with wheels and horses cut into its base. It is opened only on certain festival days, so check before making a trip for it.
Coorg (Madikeri), Karnataka
A small pavilion in a public garden where the Kodagu rajas came to watch the sun go down, and the view west over the valleys is still the reason. Crowded at dusk, with a musical fountain you may or may not want.
Experience
Ujjain (Mahakaleshwar), Madhya Pradesh
The main bathing ghat on the Shipra, central to the Kumbh Mela.
Rishikesh, Uttarakhand
A suspension footbridge three kilometres upstream, linking Swargashram to Muni Ki Reti. Motorbikes use it too, so crossing is a negotiation. Laxman Jhula further up is narrower and older.
Ayodhya, Uttar Pradesh
Stone bathing ghats along the Saryu. On Deepotsav, the night before Diwali, they are lined with several hundred thousand oil lamps, which the state lights as a record attempt each year.
The grand new temple at the birthplace of Lord Rama.
Orchha, Madhya Pradesh
The only place where Rama is worshipped as a reigning king, so the state police mount a guard and present arms at set hours. It is a palace rather than a temple because the image, once installed here, could not be moved to the temple built for it.
Kushinagar, Uttar Pradesh
The large stupa marking the site of the Buddha's cremation.
Warangal, Telangana
A UNESCO World Heritage Kakatiya temple known for its lightweight 'floating' bricks.
Bikaner, Rajasthan
A street of merchant mansions in red Dulmera sandstone, late nineteenth century, carved front to back. Most are still lived in or shut up, so this is a walk past facades rather than a tour — go with someone from the old city.
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