Coorg (Madikeri)

Coorg is coffee country, and the point of coming is to stay on an estate rather than in Madikeri, which is a hill town with traffic. Both arabica and robusta grow here under shade, with pepper vines climbing the same trees. Arrive around March and the coffee is in flower and the whole district smells of it for about a week — the best time to be here, and almost nobody plans for it. Abbey Falls runs through a private estate and is full only in the monsoon. Namdroling at Bylakuppe is the largest Nyingma monastery outside Tibet, and foreign nationals need a permit for it. Talakaveri, where the Kaveri rises, is a drive up and often inside cloud. Kodava food is worth hunting down and is on few menus — pandi curry and kadambuttu, usually only at homestays, and usually only if you ask the night before. October to March is dry. June to September is heavy rain, and the leeches come out on the walks.