Overnight houseboat cruise
Stay aboard a kettuvallam gliding through palm-fringed backwaters

region · Kerala
The mistake in Alleppey is the day boat.
The mistake in Alleppey is the day boat. A houseboat only becomes worth it once the day-trippers have gone home and the water goes quiet. Book an overnight, and if you can, book a smaller boat that can leave the main channel. The big two-storey ones are restricted to the wide canals where they queue up alongside each other; the small ones get into the narrow waterways between the paddy fields, which is where the backwaters stop being a boat trip and start being a place where people live. Better still, spend a morning on a public ferry. The government service from Alleppey to Kottayam costs almost nothing, takes a couple of hours, stops at village jetties, and carries schoolchildren and shopping. You will see more of the actual backwaters from its deck than from most houseboats. The paddy fields here are farmed below sea level, kept dry by dykes and pumps — Kuttanad is one of the few places in the world where that is done. October to March. The monsoon has its own case, and the snake boat races in the wet season are worth planning around, but the water is high and the light is grey.
Alappuzha's canal network was substantially built in the 18th-19th centuries under the Kingdom of Travancore and colonial-era trade, when the town became a major coir (coconut-fibre) and spice export port linked by backwater channels to the port at Kochi. Those same waterways today carry houseboats instead of cargo.
The 'Venice of the East' — a network of lagoons and canals best explored aboard a traditional Kettuvallam houseboat.
15 lakh
region in 2024 · Kerala Tourism (estimate)
October to March, when the humidity drops and the cruising is comfortable.
Book a country boat rather than a big houseboat. The narrow canals are the reason people come here, and the double-decker boats cannot get into them.
Lord Curzon called this old maritime port the Venice of the East, and boat-building has been in its bones ever since. Every monsoon it holds the Nehru Trophy Boat Race, when 100-foot snake boats, each pulled by hundreds of rowers in time, race one another across Punnamada Lake.
The closest airport is Cochin International Airport, 85 km north. Alappuzha Railway Station has direct express trains from Kochi, Chennai and Bengaluru. National Highway 66 runs through the town, with regular state buses daily.
Take the whole plan, or add any single stop.
Day-by-day plans other travellers have published for Alleppey (Backwaters)
Fresh coconut water by the canals
Pearl-spot fish grilled in a banana leaf
Banana-leaf vegetarian feast
Toddy shops (kallu shaap)
Fiery fish curry at a local kallu shaap
Lacy hoppers with a rich Kuttanad duck curry
Lacy hoppers with a rich Kuttanad duck curry
about 1 hr
How to spend your time in Alleppey (Backwaters).
Stay aboard a kettuvallam gliding through palm-fringed backwaters
Narrow-canal ride through paddy villages and lagoons

Long sandy beach with a historic sea pier
Thrilling long-boat races, mainly around August
The places in Alleppey (Backwaters) most people come for.
One night covers the classic backwater experience; two days lets you add Kumarakom and a village canal tour without rushing.
November to February is coolest and driest; the backwaters stay scenic through the monsoon season too, just wetter.
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