Alleppey (Backwaters)

Alleppey (Backwaters)

region · Kerala

The mistake in Alleppey is the day boat.

State
Kerala
Type
Region
Best season
Winter
Things to do
3+

The mistake in Alleppey is the day boat. A houseboat only becomes worth it once the day-trippers have gone home and the water goes quiet. Book an overnight, and if you can, book a smaller boat that can leave the main channel. The big two-storey ones are restricted to the wide canals where they queue up alongside each other; the small ones get into the narrow waterways between the paddy fields, which is where the backwaters stop being a boat trip and start being a place where people live. Better still, spend a morning on a public ferry. The government service from Alleppey to Kottayam costs almost nothing, takes a couple of hours, stops at village jetties, and carries schoolchildren and shopping. You will see more of the actual backwaters from its deck than from most houseboats. The paddy fields here are farmed below sea level, kept dry by dykes and pumps — Kuttanad is one of the few places in the world where that is done. October to March. The monsoon has its own case, and the snake boat races in the wet season are worth planning around, but the water is high and the light is grey.

A short history

Alappuzha's canal network was substantially built in the 18th-19th centuries under the Kingdom of Travancore and colonial-era trade, when the town became a major coir (coconut-fibre) and spice export port linked by backwater channels to the port at Kochi. Those same waterways today carry houseboats instead of cargo.

Why Alleppey (Backwaters) matters

The 'Venice of the East' — a network of lagoons and canals best explored aboard a traditional Kettuvallam houseboat.

How many people come

15 lakh

region in 2024 · Kerala Tourism (estimate)

When to go

October to March, when the humidity drops and the cruising is comfortable.

Why visit

Book a country boat rather than a big houseboat. The narrow canals are the reason people come here, and the double-decker boats cannot get into them.

Cultural notes

Lord Curzon called this old maritime port the Venice of the East, and boat-building has been in its bones ever since. Every monsoon it holds the Nehru Trophy Boat Race, when 100-foot snake boats, each pulled by hundreds of rowers in time, race one another across Punnamada Lake.

How to reach

The closest airport is Cochin International Airport, 85 km north. Alappuzha Railway Station has direct express trains from Kochi, Chennai and Bengaluru. National Highway 66 runs through the town, with regular state buses daily.

Alleppey (Backwaters) in 5 days

See the full itinerary

5 days in Alleppey (Backwaters)

Take the whole plan, or add any single stop.

Day 1

Day 1

Board a Kettuvallam houseboat

Board a Kettuvallam houseboat

Day 1

Cruise Vembanad Lake

Cruise Vembanad Lake

Day 1

Sunset on the backwaters

Sunset on the backwaters

Day 2

Day 2

Narrow canal paddling in a country boat

Narrow canal paddling in a country boat

Day 2

Coir-making village visit

Coir-making village visit

Day 2

Kuttanad paddy fields

Kuttanad paddy fields

Day 3

Day 3

Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary

Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary

Day 3

Bay Island driftwood museum

Bay Island driftwood museum

Day 3

Pathiramanal island by boat

Pathiramanal island by boat

Day 4

Alappuzha lighthouse

Alappuzha lighthouse

Day 4

Evening seafood dinner

Evening seafood dinner

Day 5

Day 5

Alleppey coir museum

Alleppey coir museum

Day 5

Local seafood lunch

Local seafood lunch

Day 5

Drive out via Kuttanad

Drive out via Kuttanad

Suggested Itinerary

Day-by-day plans other travellers have published for Alleppey (Backwaters)

Alleppey (Backwaters) guide & itineraries

Alleppey (Backwaters) is perfect for

coupleshoneymoonnatureslow-travel

What & where to eat

Tender coconut water

Tender coconut water

Fresh coconut water by the canals

Karimeen Pollichathu

Karimeen Pollichathu

Pearl-spot fish grilled in a banana leaf

Kerala Sadya

Kerala Sadya

Banana-leaf vegetarian feast

Toddy-shop fish curry

Toddy shops (kallu shaap)

Toddy-shop fish curry

Fiery fish curry at a local kallu shaap

Duck Roast

Duck Roast

Lacy hoppers with a rich Kuttanad duck curry

Appam

Appam

Lacy hoppers with a rich Kuttanad duck curry

Nearby getaways

Kumarakom

about 1 hr

Things to do

How to spend your time in Alleppey (Backwaters).

Overnight houseboat cruise

Overnight houseboat cruise

Stay aboard a kettuvallam gliding through palm-fringed backwaters

Village canoe / shikara ride

Village canoe / shikara ride

Narrow-canal ride through paddy villages and lagoons

Alappuzha Beach & pier

Alappuzha Beach & pier

Long sandy beach with a historic sea pier

Snake boat races

Snake boat races

Thrilling long-boat races, mainly around August

Popular attractions

The places in Alleppey (Backwaters) most people come for.

Frequently asked questions

Is one night on a houseboat enough?

One night covers the classic backwater experience; two days lets you add Kumarakom and a village canal tour without rushing.

Best time to visit Alleppey?

November to February is coolest and driest; the backwaters stay scenic through the monsoon season too, just wetter.

More to explore in Kerala

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