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Punjab
This was never a destination. It was a highway-inn on the Mughal military road between Delhi and Lahore, where the royal couple broke the journey going up and…
The Golden Temple sits lower than the ground around it, and you walk down steps to reach the water.
Anandpur Sahib — the 'Holy City of Bliss' — matters as much as anywhere in the Sikh faith outside Amritsar.
Just outside Patiala, and with two histories inside one set of walls.
Takht Sri Damdama Sahib at Talwandi Sabo is one of the five Takhts of Sikhism, the place where Guru Gobind Singh prepared the definitive recension of the Guru…
Firozpur's hexagonal fort spent most of its useful life as an ammunition dump, and that is the interesting part.
Soldiers held this fort right up until it opened to the public in February 2017, which is why it survived and also why it feels managed: it is being developed…
Hussainiwala village sits out past Firozpur city, and the memorial there is held for Bhagat Singh, Sukhdev Thapar and Shivaram Rajguru.
Three kilometres out of Rupnagar, in the village that carries his name, sits the fort of Nihang Khan, an Afghan zamindar who held 80 villages in the…
The building was once a British headquarters and a jail, which gives the Partition Museum in Amritsar's town hall a weight the exhibits never have to…
Qila Mubarak at Bathinda is counted among the oldest surviving forts in India, its enormous weathered brick bastions rising from foundations associated with…
Manage your expectations before you go: most of this fortress is shut, the Shish Mahal included, and what is open, the Darbar Hall now a museum, the Sarad…
Maharaja Ranjit Singh spent his summers in the palace at the centre of this Amritsar garden, which was completed in 1831 and named for Guru Ram Das, the…
The man who did the calligraphy on the Taj Mahal built this inn for travellers on the Agra-Lahore road, and the tomb standing nearby is thought to be his own.
Anandpur Sahib's museum stands a short way from Takht Kesgarh Sahib and takes on 500 years of Sikh history and the 300th anniversary of the founding of the…
The Wagah Border is the crossing on the Radcliffe Line between India and Pakistan, roughly 28 km outside the historic city of Amritsar, and the best-known…
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