Gobindgarh Fort

Soldiers held this fort right up until it opened to the public in February 2017, which is why it survived and also why it feels managed: it is being developed as a museum and theme park telling Punjab's history. The square plan runs a kilometre round, built entirely of brick and lime, and once carried 25 cannons on its ramparts. Amritsar still calls it Bhangian da Killa after the Bhangi Misl who held it until 1805, before Maharaja Ranjit Singh renamed it for Guru Gobind Singh. The British occupied it from the mid-1800s to 1947. Expect a curated afternoon, not ruins.