Hill Fort Kesroli

Jodhpur

Mehrangarh is the best fort in India, and if you only climb one in Rajasthan it should be this one. It sits on a cliff a hundred and twenty metres above the city with no gap between rock and wall — the masonry simply continues the escarpment. The audio guide is one of the few in the country genuinely worth taking. Look for the handprints beside Loha Pol, left by royal widows on their way to the pyre. About the blue: people arrive expecting an entirely blue city and find a mostly ochre one. The blue is real but it is concentrated in the Brahmpuri quarter below the fort's north-east wall, and the way to see it is from the ramparts looking down, or by walking those specific lanes. Anywhere else in Jodhpur you will wonder what you were promised. Toorji ka Jhalra, the restored stepwell in the old city, is where everyone goes at sunset now and it has the cafés to prove it. Rao Jodha desert rock park, just outside the fort gates, has almost nobody in it and is the better hour. October to early March. By May the afternoon heat here is not a discomfort, it is a hazard.