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Pul Kanjri

Pul Kanjri

village · Punjab

State
Punjab
Type
Village

A trading town that drew shoppers from both Amritsar and Lahore is now a tiny village 35 km down the old Amritsar-Lahore road, and the compression of that sentence is the visit. Maharaja Ranjit Singh rested here with his troops and had a bridge built across the canal, the story going that it was for Gul Bahar Begum, who would not wade; part of it still stands. Inside are a bathing pool, a temple, a gurudwara and a mosque, which was unremarkable before Partition. Pakistan briefly held the place in 1965 and again in 1971.

Pul Kanjri is known for

Ranjit Singh's bridgeBorder-village ruinsPool, temple, mosque

Pul Kanjri guide & itineraries

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The Golden Temple sits lower than the ground around it, and you walk down steps to reach the water. That is deliberate: nearly every other temple in India makes you climb up to it. It has four doors, one on each side, for the same reason — the building is meant to be entered from any direction, by anyone. Head covered, shoes off, feet through the water channel at the entrance, and nobody will ask you anything else. The langar behind the complex feeds on the order of a hundred thousand people a day, more at weekends, on donated food and volunteer labour. The dish hall takes anyone who turns up to help, and half an hour in it tells you more about the place than any guidebook. The Akal Takht faces the sanctum across the water. It is the seat of temporal authority in Sikhism, and those two buildings looking at each other across a pool is the whole argument of the faith in one view.

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Fatehgarh Sahib

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