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Temples, ghats & pilgrimages
31 places
Maharashtra
Pandharpur on the Chandrabhaga (Bhima) river is the spiritual heart of Maharashtra — home of Vitthal, the brick-standing form of Krishna, and his consort Rakhumai. For 800 years the Varkari saints, from Dnyaneshwar to Tukaram, have sung their way here; every Ashadhi Ekadashi, palkhis bearing the saints' padukas converge on foot from across the state in the wari, a river of dindis a million strong chanting 'Vitthal Vitthal' to the doors of the dark, smiling god.
Madhya Pradesh
Amarkantak is where the Narmada is born — a hilltop sanctuary in the Maikal range where India's holiest westward river rises from a small white-tiled kund ringed by temples. The Sone river springs from the same plateau to flow east, making this a rare watershed of sacred geography. Around the Narmada Udgam cluster the ancient Kalachuri-era temples, Kapil Dhara falls where the infant river first leaps, and forests rich with medicinal herbs.
Omkareshwar is one of the twelve jyotirlingas, set on an island in the Narmada shaped — pilgrims will show you — like the sacred syllable Om. The Omkareshwar temple's tiered shikhara rises above the ghats on Mandhata island, reached by boat or the arched footbridges, and a parikrama path circles the island past shrines, sadhus and river views. On the far bank stands Mamleshwar, its partner jyotirlinga shrine, completing the darshan.
Tamil Nadu
At Tiruvannamalai, Shiva is the mountain itself — Arunachala, the hill of fire, with the vast Arunachaleswarar temple at its foot spreading over ten hectares beneath four colossal gopurams. Pilgrims walk the 14-km girivalam barefoot around the hill every full moon, and on Karthigai Deepam a giant cauldron of ghee is lit on the summit, visible for miles. The ashram of Ramana Maharshi, the sage of self-enquiry who never left the mountain, draws seekers from every continent.
Palani's Dhandayuthapani Swamy — Murugan as the renunciate boy with staff and loincloth — watches from his hill shrine over one of Tamil Nadu's greatest pilgrimages. This is where the child god, losing the contest for the fruit of wisdom, stormed off declaring 'You yourself are the fruit' (Pazham Nee), and where the idol, by tradition, was shaped by siddha Bogar from nine poisonous minerals. Pilgrims climb the 690 steps, ride the winch trains, or carry kavadis in their lakhs at Thaipusam.
Karnataka
Dharmasthala is Karnataka's temple of harmony: a Shiva shrine (Manjunatha) whose priests are Vaishnava Brahmins and whose hereditary guardians, the Heggade family, are Jain — dispensing dharma, justice and food to all comers for over 800 years. Its annadana feeds tens of thousands daily in one of India's great free kitchens, while the 12-metre Bahubali monolith and a vintage-car museum stand nearby on the Netravati's banks.
Sringeri, folded into the Western Ghats on the Tunga river, is the first and foremost of the four peethams founded by Adi Shankaracharya in the 8th century — chosen, says tradition, when he saw a cobra shading a frog in labour from the sun. The Vidyashankara temple's zodiac-pillared hall and the golden Sharadamba shrine anchor a living centre of Vedic learning, while thousands of fish swarm the ghats where pilgrims feed them as the goddess's own.
West Bengal
Dakshineswar, on the Hooghly north of Kolkata, is the great navaratna (nine-spired) temple of Bhavatarini Kali built by Rani Rashmoni in 1855 — and the temple where Sri Ramakrishna served as priest, had his God-intoxicated visions, and drew the world to Kali's feet. His room in the courtyard's corner is preserved as he left it; twelve Shiva temples line the riverfront, and ferries cross to Belur Math on the far bank.
Udupi's Krishna Matha, founded by the Dvaita philosopher Madhvacharya in the 13th century, is one of South India's busiest temple towns. Krishna is famously seen not face-on but through the silver-plated Kanakana Kindi — the window through which the low-caste devotee Kanakadasa was granted darshan when the image, by legend, turned to face him. Eight surrounding mathas rotate charge in the biennial Paryaya pageant, and the temple's kitchens seeded the world's beloved Udupi cuisine.
Belur Math, headquarters of the Ramakrishna Mission on the Hooghly's west bank, was consecrated by Swami Vivekananda in 1899. Its main temple is a deliberate symphony of faiths — a facade that reads as temple, church and mosque depending on where you stand — enshrining Sri Ramakrishna's relics. The riverside campus of lawns and shrines to Holy Mother Sarada Devi and Vivekananda breathes an orderly, universal calm unlike anywhere else in Kolkata.
Punjab
Gurdwara Fatehgarh Sahib rises in white marble over the site of Sikhism's most heart-rending sacrifice — where in 1704 the two youngest sons of Guru Gobind Singh, aged just seven and nine, were bricked alive by the Sirhind governor for refusing to abandon their faith. The underground Bhora Sahib preserves the wall's site; nearby stand Mata Gujri's tower prison and the shrine of Todar Mal, who bought the cremation ground with gold coins laid edge to edge.
Jharkhand
At Rajrappa the Damodar and Bhairavi rivers meet below a red-washed shrine of Chhinnamastika — the self-decapitated Tantric goddess who feeds her attendants from her own severed head, an image of fearless self-sacrifice. One of India's most important Tantric peeths, the temple hums with drummers, sacrifices and river-bathing pilgrims, while the waterfall confluence below gives the place a wild, elemental setting.
Kerala
Chottanikkara Bhagavathy, on Kochi's green edge, is one of Kerala's most powerful goddess temples — the Devi worshipped as Saraswati at dawn, Lakshmi at noon and Durga at dusk. The temple is famed across the South for healing afflictions of the mind; at the lower Kizhukkavu shrine, the guardian Bhadrakali's ancient paala tree bristles with nails driven in as spirits are exorcised at the wrenching Guruthi Pooja each night.
Jammu & Kashmir
In a spring-fed pool at Tulmulla, shaded by great chinars, sits the marble shrine of Ragnya Devi — Kheer Bhawani, named for the rice-pudding offered to her. She is the beloved guardian goddess of the Kashmiri Pandits, and her spring is famous for changing colour, read for generations as an omen for the Valley. The annual mela on Jyeshtha Ashtami brings Pandit families home from across India in Kashmir's most poignant homecoming.
Telangana
Yadadri's hilltop cave shrine of Lakshmi Narasimha — the fierce man-lion form of Vishnu — has been transformed into Telangana's grandest temple: the hill re-clad entirely in carved black granite by hundreds of sthapathis in a decade-long rebuild, its vimana gilded with quintals of gold. Inside, the self-manifested Narasimha images sit in a low rock cleft where devotees have prayed for centuries, many coming for the deity's famed healing grace.
Goa
Shantadurga, at the foot of the Ponda hills, is the most visited of Goa's Hindu temples — dedicated to the goddess who mediated peace between Shiva and Vishnu, worshipped here in her calm (shanta) form. The temple's Indo-Portuguese architecture is unique to Goa: a pyramidal roof, a white six-storey deepastambha (lamp tower), Roman-arched windows and chandeliered halls, all in deep maroon and cream, rebuilt in the 1730s under Maratha patronage after the original shrine fled the Inquisition.
Bhadrachalam, on the Godavari, is the 'Ayodhya of the South' — the seat of Sita Ramachandraswamy, whose temple was raised in the 17th century by the tahsildar-saint Kancherla Gopanna, remembered as Bhakta Ramadasu for the kirtans he wrote in prison for the temple's sake. The Sri Rama Navami kalyanam (celestial wedding) performed here draws lakhs, with the state itself presenting pearls for the ritual, a tradition running unbroken from the Qutb Shahi kings.
Delhi
Swaminarayan Akshardham on the Yamuna's east bank is modern India's grandest act of temple-building — a pink sandstone and white marble mandir raised in just five years by volunteers and artisans working from ancient shilpa texts. 234 carved pillars, 20,000 sculpted figures, a colonnade of 148 stone elephants and the gilded murti of Bhagwan Swaminarayan lead out to exhibitions, a boat ride through Indian civilisation, and the evening musical fountain.
Shri Manguesh at Priol is the largest and most famous temple in Goa, home of Mangesh — a form of Shiva worshipped by generations of Goud Saraswat Brahmins, including the family of Lata Mangeshkar, who took their name from the deity. Its white seven-storey lamp tower is a Goan icon, rising from a compound of tiled courtyards, a temple tank and agrashalas, the whole ensemble in that unmistakable Goan temple style born of exile from the coastal talukas.
Haryana
Kurukshetra is the battlefield of the Mahabharata and the ground where the Bhagavad Gita was spoken. Its heart is the vast Brahma Sarovar, one of India's largest sacred tanks, ringed by ghats and shrines where lakhs bathe during solar eclipses. Nearby lie Jyotisar, the banyan under which Krishna is said to have counselled Arjuna, the Sannihit Sarovar, and the modern Sri Krishna and panorama museums that retell the epic.
Arunachal Pradesh
Parshuram Kund, on the Lohit river where it leaves the hills, is Arunachal's holiest Hindu site — the pool where, by legend, sage Parshuram washed away the sin of matricide and the axe fell from his hand. Every Makar Sankranti (mid-January), tens of thousands of pilgrims from Assam and beyond descend to the boulder-strewn river for a freezing holy dip, turning the remote gorge into a great mela. The rest of the year it is a quiet, mountain-ringed bend of jade water.
Chhattisgarh
Bhoramdeo, wrapped in the forested Maikal hills, is called the 'Khajuraho of Chhattisgarh' — an 11th-century Shiva temple of the Nagvanshi kings whose walls carry tier upon tier of sculpted musicians, dancers, deities and frankly amorous couples. The sanctum's dark stone Shiva sits behind a hall of carved pillars, and two earlier brick temples and a sculpture-filled lawn complete the complex beside a lotus pond.
At Dongargarh the goddess Bamleshwari watches from a 1,600-step hilltop — the Badi (elder) Bamleshwari — while her sister shrine, Chhoti Bamleshwari, stands in the town below. The temple is Chhattisgarh's busiest pilgrimage, its twin Navratri fairs drawing lakhs of devotees who climb through the night as the hill glows with lamps. A ropeway now glides over the boulders for those who skip the stairs.
Leh & Ladakh
Diskit is the oldest and largest monastery of the Nubra valley, founded in the 14th century and stacked on a rocky spur above the Shyok river. Its prayer halls hold fierce guardian deities and centuries-old murals, but the landmark is newer: the 32-metre Jampa (Maitreya) Buddha on the hill facing Pakistan, consecrated by the Dalai Lama in 2010, gazing out over the cold-desert dunes of Hunder.
Alchi is unlike any other gompa in Ladakh: it sits low by the Indus rather than on a crag, and its temples preserve some of the finest 11th–12th century Buddhist art in the world. The Kashmiri-style murals of the Sumtsek and Dukhang — thousand-Buddha walls, colossal bodhisattvas painted with miniature scenes on their robes — survive from the era of the great translator Rinchen Zangpo. It is a quiet village of apricot orchards, a living museum of a vanished artistic world.
Sikkim
Rumtek is the largest monastery in Sikkim and the seat-in-exile of the Karmapa, head of the Karma Kagyu (Black Hat) lineage. Rebuilt in the 1960s by the 16th Karmapa as a faithful copy of Tibet's Tsurphu monastery, it holds the Golden Stupa with his relics, a monastic college, and treasures of the lineage. Ritual dances, deep-horn ensembles and the view back across the valley to Gangtok make it the centrepiece of any Sikkim circuit.
Thiksey Gompa cascades down a hillock above the Indus like a miniature Potala Palace — twelve storeys of whitewashed cells, red-ochre temples and golden finials. The seat of the Gelug (Yellow Hat) order in central Ladakh, it houses a 15-metre Maitreya (Future Buddha) seated in a two-storey hall, along with murals, thangkas and a library of Kangyur volumes. The morning prayers, announced by conch and drum from the rooftop, are among Ladakh's most moving experiences.
Assam
Hajo is an ancient pilgrimage town near Guwahati in Assam, revered across three faiths. The hilltop Hayagriva Madhava temple draws Hindus and some Buddhists who believe the Buddha attained nirvana here, while the nearby Poa Mecca is an important Muslim shrine, making Hajo a rare centre of shared devotion.
Rajasthan
Nathdwara, on the banks of the Banas river in Rajasthan, is the principal Pushtimarg pilgrimage town in India, home to the revered Shrinathji Temple. The deity, a form of Krishna as a seven-year-old lifting Mount Govardhan, was brought here from the Mathura region in the 17th century, and the town is also famed for its pichwai devotional paintings.
Andhra Pradesh
Lepakshi, in Andhra Pradesh's Sri Sathya Sai district, is known for the 16th-century Veerabhadra Temple, a masterpiece of Vijayanagara architecture. It is famed for its intricately carved pillars, vivid ceiling frescoes, a giant monolithic Nandi bull nearby and the mysterious hanging pillar that barely touches the ground.
Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Thiruvananthapuram is a Vaishnava shrine where Lord Vishnu reclines on the serpent Anantha in the Anantha-shayanam posture. Blending Kerala and Dravidian styles with a towering seven-tier gopuram, it became world-famous when vast treasures were documented in its vaults, ranking it among the wealthiest temples on earth.
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