Jama Masjid (Delhi)

Lahori Gate, Red Fort, Delhi

This is the way in, and the argument about it is centuries old: Aurangzeb pushed a barbican out in front of the gate, and his father, writing from house arrest, complained that he had put a veil on a bride. Walk through and you are in the Chhatta Chowk, the covered street with arcaded apartments along both sides. Look up before you pass under — three storeys of panelled red sandstone, semi-octagonal towers, open pavilions on top, and a screen of seven small marble domes between them. Every Independence Day since 1947, the prime minister has spoken from these ramparts.