Uttarakhand

Uttarakhand splits cleanly in two, and the Garhwal and Kumaon halves attract quite different travellers. Garhwal in the west is where the pilgrimage is: the Char Dham — Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath, Badrinath — plus Rishikesh and Haridwar on the Ganga where it leaves the hills. The dhams open around late April or early May and close by November, and the road distances are much larger than the map suggests. Kumaon in the east is quieter and gentler: Nainital, Almora, Kausani, Binsar, and the ridge villages where you get Himalayan views without a trek. If you want mountains without a pilgrimage, go east. The walking here is exceptional. Valley of Flowers in July and August, which is monsoon and which is exactly when it blooms. Chopta to Tungnath, the highest Shiva temple, is a short walk with an enormous view. Corbett and Rajaji are the tiger reserves. Corbett is the famous one and books out months ahead. April to June and September to November, with the flower valley as the monsoon exception.